Tangy, herbal, spicy, a touch grippy, this is a fascinating SA Chenin Blanc from natural wine royalty, Testalonga.

Organically farmed, the fruit spends twelve days on skins, developing citrus, orange peel and floral flavours, and is full of youthful, perky acidity. Expect to find florals intermingled with ginger and spice, too.

The Baby Bandito wine are the entry into the world of Testalonga wines. The grapes for these wines come from younger vineyards (10-20 years old). As with the bigger El Bandito wines, winemaker Craig Hawkins refrains from any additives and technical gimmicks.

Chenin with 10 days maceration, which is just the right amount for this wine. Decant and give it some air. It’s delicate, and after some room to breathe it gives off notes of apricot, vanilla, white pepper and lime.