Donovan Rall is counted among the best winemakers in Swartland and South Africa. In everything, he is an impressive personality and that is not only due to his imposing stature. After graduating from Stellenbosch University in 2005, he first decided to travel before returning and settling in Swartland in 2007. Here he went in search of old small vineyards, from which he makes natural wines. The fruit from the different parcels is always vinified separately and then blended. This is where Donovan’s talent comes into play; he is probably one of the best blenders in the Cape. All his wines are made naturally.

Grapes for the Ava Syrah 2022 are harvested from a Schist vineyard around the Kasteelberg region in Swartland. Ava is a tiny selection of Syrah on the most extreme and low yielding sites. Fermented with 100% whole bunches and matured in large oak barrels to truly express the place and soil on which it’s grown. 2022 vintage is by Donovan the most expressive and aromatic red he has produced. Only 3900 bottles made.

Nose: Intense fynbos, herbs, tea and fine spices from whole bunches.

Palate: The palate is dense with firm tannins and real fruit intensity.

Finish: The typical savoury finish of Syrah grown on the extremely low yielding soils.

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“It’s not supposed to be a great vintage,” says Donovan Rall, “but I love some of the 2022s.” Sure enough, this 100% whole bunch Syrah from schist soils is every bit as good as the 2021 release. Focused, floral and balletic, it’s a refreshing, almost light-bodied style with wild thyme and rose petal aromas, black olive, tapenade, plum and clove flavours and finely judged tannins. 2024-30

Tim Atkin MW: 96 Points